Dr Faiza shams
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"Dr. Faiza Shams | Health & Skincare Insights 🌿
A pharmacist and PhD in molecular biology sharing science-based tips and expert advice on health, skincare, and beauty.
Multi-molecular weight on your HA serum label isn’t marketing language — it’s molecular science.
High molecular weight HA sits on your skin’s surface, forming a protective film. Low molecular weight HA reaches deeper epidermal layers for lasting hydration.
Two sizes, two different jobs — and that’s exactly why it matters what’s actually in your serum. 🧬
No excuses. Sunscreen stays non-negotiable. ☀️
Does Hyaluronic Acid Serum Make Your Skin Drier?
Sounds contradictory, but it can happen — and it usually comes down to how you’re applying it, not the ingredient itself.
HA is a humectant — it attracts moisture rather than creating it. In low humidity, without the right technique, it can end up pulling from your own skin instead of the air.
Here’s the fix: apply HA to damp skin, right after cleansing — never fully dry skin.
Then seal it in with a moisturizer within a minute or two, before it has a chance to evaporate.
That combination — damp application + sealing — is what makes the difference between HA hydrating your skin and leaving it feeling tighter than before.
Some actives aren’t just about timing — they’re about safety.
☀️ Vitamin C, Niacinamide — morning, for antioxidant protection through the day
🌙 Glycolic Acid — evening only, since it increases sun sensitivity and raises risk of UV damage if used in the day without strict SPF
🌙 Peptides — evening, when skin is in repair mode
🕐 Hyaluronic Acid — safe anytime, no photosensitivity concern
Using exfoliating acids at night isn’t a rule for no reason — it’s protecting your skin from damage you won’t see until later.
To all the people in research who had a bad day today — tomorrow will be the same, and that’s okay. 🥼
Science isn’t linear. Some days it’s just… this. And that’s part of the process, not a failure of it.
If you’re in a lab, a lecture hall, or just trying to figure something out today — keep going.
08/07/2026
Today is World Skin Health Day.
As a molecular biologist, my approach to skin has always been simple: don’t fight your skin’s biology — work with it.
Harsh actives, aggressive treatments, and quick fixes might show short-term results, but they often come at the cost of your skin barrier — and that cost shows up later, not now.
Real skin health is about longevity. Choosing what supports your skin’s natural function today so it still functions well years from now.
Skin Health Over Skin Tone. Today, and every day.
Dr. Faiza Shams | PhD Molecular Biology
MolecularBiology
Be like Hyaluronic Acid: draw in what nourishes you, and hold onto it. 💧
07/07/2026
Skin hydration isn't just about how much water you apply — it's about how much your skin retains.
Hydration is regulated by Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) — the rate at which water moves from the dermis through the epidermis and evaporates at the surface (Akdeniz et al., 2018).
An intact stratum corneum and lipid matrix limit this loss. When the barrier is disrupted, TEWL increases, leading to dryness and sensitivity.
Source: Akdeniz, M., Gabriel, S., Lichterfeld-Kottner, A., Blume-Peytavi, U., & Kottner, J. (2018). Transepidermal water loss in healthy adults: A systematic review and meta-analysis update. British Journal of Dermatology, 179(5), 1049–1055.
Niacinamide is one of the most studied actives in skincare — and its effects on skin cells go beyond a single function.
Research has identified multiple documented mechanisms: supporting ceramide synthesis for a stronger skin barrier, reducing melanosome transfer, modulating inflammatory markers, and supporting collagen synthesis in fibroblasts.
Sebum reduction has also been clinically observed, though the exact underlying pathway is still under research.
Molecular & Cellular skin science, explained simply!
Hakozaki, T., Minwalla, L., Zhuang, J., Chhoa, M., Matsubara, A., Miyamoto, K., Greatens, A., Hillebrand, G. G., Bissett, D. L., & Boissy, R. E. (2002). The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. British Journal of Dermatology, 147(1), 20–31. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1365-2133.2002.04834.x
Marques, C., Hadjab, F., Porcello, A., Lourenço, K., Scaletta, C., Abdel-Sayed, P., Hirt-Burri, N., Applegate, L. A., & Laurent, A. (2024). Mechanistic insights into the multiple functions of niacinamide: Therapeutic implications and cosmeceutical applications in functional skincare products. Antioxidants, 13(4), 425. https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox13040425
Oblong, J. E., Bissett, D. L., Ritter, J. L., Kurtz, K. K., & Schnicker, M. S. (2001, March 2–7). Niacinamide stimulates collagen synthesis from human dermal fibroblasts and differentiation marker in normal human epidermal keratinocytes: Potential of niacinamide to normalize aged skin cells to correct homeostatic balance [Poster presentation]. 59th Annual Meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology, Washington, DC, United States.
Tanno, O., Ota, Y., Kitamura, N., Katsube, T., & Inoue, S. (2000). Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. British Journal of Dermatology, 143(3), 524–531. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-2133.2000.03705.x
Formulation science isn’t linear. Every failed batch is data. 🔬
What’s something in your field that looks like failure but is actually just… process?
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